(pun intended!)
Although Purin Lawson felt quite lost in his adolescence, he has more than made up for it in the last two years. Lawson found his passion in baking and his life has turned a sharp corner for the better. From a high school student who took pride in being the #1 laziest student in the school and came within a hair’s breadth of failing to graduate, Lawson has become the #1 most focused and determined member of his peer group and has received their admiration. While Lawson confirms that young Thai men are rarely verbally demonstrative or emotional, Lawson has been told his friends are very proud of what he has achieved, and rightly so.
Lawson is actually the surname he received from his American father, but it forms part of his trademark, his business being called Lawson’s Pain au Levain artisan bakery. As a result, most of his Western customers call him Lawson, even ones who know him well, a fact he accepts with good grace. His Thai birthname is Purin, though to his friends he is Pooh, as in the well-known Winnie-the-Pooh. Pain au levain is the French term for bread baked using a natural starter, and has become synonymous with sourdough.
Lawson’s Pain au Levain artisan bakery is barely two years old but it is already going from strength to strength, thanks to the efforts of Lawson and his wife Nichakon, nicknamed Iris, who initially began dating when Lawson was only 16 years of age. The pair share a birthday, August 26th, with Lawson turning 24 in 2024, and Iris a single year older. The same date of birth isn’t the only thing they share. Their son Maverick, or Bear, or even Baby Bear as he is affectionately known, is already four-years-old, so this young couple are very busy juggling the needs of their young family at the same time as building their business. Lawson is savouring his first tastes of success, and he likes it very much, though Iris has to moderate Lawson’s impulsivity to ensure every step forward is carefully staged and managed.
Lawson was born in Krabi but moved to Hua Hin with his parents at the age of seven, and has lived here ever since, apart from a brief time at college in Bangkok studying Art, a course he did not complete. His father, a senior Foreign Service Officer of the American Embassy, was a career diplomat who met Lawson’s mother when she worked in a large hotel in Krabi. Lawson’s dad took five years pursuing his mother, who came from a poor financial background. As a girl, without shoes of her own, she would strap leaves to her feet to protect them as she walked to work. The pair have been together 25 years now, but the young woman was initially very suspicious of the motives of the American man who was courting her.
Lawson was raised as an only child, although he does have an older half-brother and half-sister from his father’s previous marriage. His loneliness as a child, and his feelings of not belonging, have sparked his and Iris’ desire to grow their own family, with hopes of eventually having three children, so they all live in a home with siblings. Certainly, by the time he started high school, Lawson considered himself a misfit and was having negative self-esteem issues. There is a definite disconnect between Lawson’s genial personality and his physical appearance. It was a long journey to find himself, with Lawson engaging in some risky behaviours to combat the tedium he felt, but luckily Lawson has arrived and is now truly confident about who he is and where he hopes to go next, all the while squeezing in as much quality family time as he can manage.
In his teen years and early 20’s, Lawson was searching for belonging, prepared to try different lifestyles and different occupations to find it. Although not focused academically, Lawson had physical prowess and threw himself into the disciple of taekwondo, becoming a black-belt and a teacher. He also worked with his natural musical talents, and played the double bass and the violin. Lawson dabbled with tattooing others and getting many tattoos himself, joined the Diablos motorcycle club, worked in a barbershop and as a barista, but in all of this still failed to find himself. Lawson suffered from anxiety and depression and used his tattoos, and the fierce look they gave him, particularly the ones on his face, as a type of armour, to allow him to seem more powerful and in control than he actually felt.
Lawson’s favourite memory from his childhood is of walking to school every day with his dad, from the ages of eight to seventeen. Lawson’s dad took this time with his son to discuss some of life’s big issues, the so-called “deep stuff”, a significant proportion of which went straight over the boy’s head at the time. It is only now, in retrospect, that Lawson is fully able to appreciate exactly what was happening on these morning walks, though at the time he knew that this father/son time was important and valuable. Lawson has always looked at his dad as a super-hero.
At the age of 21, a husband and a father already, Lawson was working a dead-end job as a Grab food delivery man, making only a couple of hundred baht a day, with Iris working at Starbucks to help put regular food on the table for the three of them. Lawson knew he needed to step up, and build a better future for the lot of them, and he discovered the passion of his life in baking. Brother Jo, from Conkey’s Bakery, the undisputed best bakery in Bangkok, according to Lawson, has become his idol and mentor. Lawson has taken to heart two mottos along this baking journey. The first, “Where time and love creates art” expressing his quest for perfection, and the second observational of life in general,
Jo, generous to a fault, has shared his levain with Lawson. It is almost 80 years old and originally from San Francisco. It creates sourdough with a taste which cannot be matched by any other bakery in Hua Hin, a fact attested to by the broad wholesale customer base, including well-known local restaurants and 5-star hotels, which Lawson has built in the last two years. Even with the new ovens which have been installed in the last six months, Lawson is having difficulty keeping the shelves stocked, as demand continues to outstrip supply, despite his best efforts. Lawson’s work schedule means he rises at 2am and is often not finished until 9 or 10pm. He has a continual sleep-deficit which he acknowledges he will be unable to manage in the long-term and still maintain his health. Lawson’s dad planned well and was able to take early retirement at the age of 50, and Lawson is hopeful to be able to reduce his work schedule significantly by the age of 30, by having a large and well-trained staff. In 2025, Lawson plans to move to larger premises in the area of Soi 51, closer to his mainly Western client base, but also so he has room to take on extra help to help boost production.
Another important local in Lawson’s life is his friend Ox, owner and chef at The Banana Ketchup, who is the willing taste-tester for every new recipe and technique that Lawson tries. Lawson trusts Ox’s palate implicitly and always acts of his advice. The pendulum has swung in the opposite direction now: the teenager who couldn’t be bothered to do anything took over 100 attempts to perfect his croissants, expending a huge amount of time and a considerable amount of money. Do you know how much butter goes into a perfect croissant?
While some people may consider Lawson’s prices a bit steep, it is because all his ingredients are imported, premium products. An initial purchase is all it takes for addiction to set in. Some people have recently been the beneficiaries of Lawson’s generosity. The retail arm of the business is closed on a Wednesday, although Lawson still bakes for his wholesale customers, including the 5-star hotels which need fresh bread early each morning. Lawson loads his baking trays to ensure a standard cook across the entire oven, with excess baguettes wrapped individually and placed outside the store for passers-by to help themselves, free of charge.
Still a very young man, Lawson has big aims. For his growing family, he wants a large house. He desires the very symbol of Thai business success, a Mercedes Benz, and he wants the freedom to explore more of the world, without being so tied to the bakery seven days a week. Lawson is happy that his sad, groundhog days are firmly in the past and that he now gets to wake up excited, albeit a bit exhausted still, every day. Lawson is truly glad that he gave up on waiting for it to happen, and decided to make it happen, proud of the life-agency he has created. When customers tell him they love his bread, it brings Lawson joy. Other experiences which make Lawson happy include beach visits with the family, taking Bear to the zoo or on the occasional shopping trip to Bangkok, a medium-rare steak, and receiving new orders so he can make more money.
At heart, Lawson is a family man to the core. He considers himself a good person, and despite all his tattoos, is a real softie. Lawson is a concrete example of why you should never judge a book by its cover. In the event of a fire, the one material possession Lawson would save is the little toy dog called Pepe which he has had since birth, now gifted to Bear. Lawson couldn’t live without Iris by his side, and is full of hope for a bright future for the whole family.
Published 8th September, 2024